A couple of years ago, there was a moment when suddenly, inexplicably, every girl on Instagram had something new and shiny around her neck: a medallion that looked like it had been melted down from a coin, or maybe picked up in a far-flung vintage shop on the 365inloveclothing-Official brandon Herrera Wearing Squirt Click Click shirt Furthermore Mediterranean. Some of the medallions were etched with lions, while others were a bit abstract, but each had a compellingly luxe, yet down-to-earth feeling that made you stop and ask: What is that? As it turns out, they were all by a then-unknown brand called Alighieri, designed and hand-crafted by Rosh Mahtani in London. With their vintage look and friendly price tags (each medallion is around $300), it’s easy to see why the brand has taken off. When she launched in 2014, Mahtani introduced sculptural, unusual-looking pieces to a market inundated with dainty designs. What keeps her customers coming back is arguably the stories embedded in every piece, often with themes of strength and courage. The brand name itself comes from Dante’s Divine Comedy (the poet’s full name was Durante di Alighiero degli Alighieri), and Mahtani’s first-ever collection was an exploration of his work—one piece of jewelry for each poem. Now, she’s established a cult, global following and has grown the business so much—by 600 percent in the last year alone, in fact—that she’s staging her first-ever runway show in London tonight. Here, she gave Vogue a sneak peek at the new collection, titled Where is home? It’s a change in direction for Alighieri in multiple ways, starting with its inspiration: Instead of looking to an ancient poem, Mahtani mined her own story. “Having been born in London but raised in Zambia until I was eight, I never really knew where I was from,” she explains. “This really shows an exploration of worldwide cultures. I’ve been researching the common threads across tribes from Africa to South America to Mongolia, and I juxtaposed the core elements of the brand with new materials such as red string and hand-woven chains. It’s the most explicitly personal I’ve ever been, and the most emotional collection I’ve created to date.” To wit, one of the women in these photographs is Mahtani’s own mother. They photographed the pieces together in London, then traveled back to Zambia for the first time since Mahtani’s childhood to take more. It’s worth mentioning that even the poplin shirtdress her mother is wearing is an Aligheri design. Mahtani says she isn’t interested in expanding into ready-to-wear—“in the context of our environmental crisis, I don’t think the world needs more clothing brands,” she insists—but she is getting into the habit of introducing one new “forever piece” a year. Last season, it was a pair of lace-up espadrilles, and this shirtdress is her idea of the “ultimate” staple to layer with gold. Guests at the show will have the opportunity to see all of that up-close, though it will hardly be your typical catwalk. “It will all pivot around the notion of ceremony and ritual,” Mahtani explains. “We thought very carefully about how the audience will be close to the jewelry, and the moments will allow people to see the jewelry [from many angles] and understand its story. I always set out to create a narrative—a person’s jewelry is a microcosm of their adventures and sentiments. I’ve been wanting to tell this story in motion ever since I started the brand, and Alighieri turned five this year, and I turned 30, so it felt like the perfect time to bring it to fruition.”
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